Pinot Gris, by Any Other Name. . .
The French call it Pinot Gris, unless it’s France’s Alsace region where it is sometimes called Tokay Pinot Gris or Tokay d’Alsace. Germans and Austrians know it as Grauburgunder and Rülander. Italians call it Pinot Grigio and the United States or other new world countries may call it either Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio. If you are already drinking it, wouldn’t you like to become acquainted with its different expressions? If you’re not, wouldn’t it be fun to get to know this food-friendly, chillable, wonderfully quaffable white wine?
Pinot Noir is a red wine grape variety believed to have been growing in France for over two thousand years. Its tendency to mutate is one reason it is considered difficult to grow, but that’s also why it’s the progenitor of as many as one thousand variations. Some have become varietals in their own right including Pinot Munier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Noir is black, Blanc is white and Gris is gray in French and Grigio is gray in Italian. These terms refer to the grape’s comparative hue on the vine. You can consider the terms Gris and Grigio largely interchangeable as far as selecting a wine goes.
Grape varietals used for winemaking can exhibit different styles and flavors depending upon where it’s made and the influence of the winemaker’s choices. Pinot Gris is certainly no exception, and in fact, its range of expression is part of the wine’s charm. Northern Italian versions are usually dry, light-bodied and crisp while those from Alsace are rich, fat and have a honeyed quality. Domestic examples may fall anywhere within this range, but are usually dry to off-dry.
Except for a few Alsace specialties, Pinot Gris normally cost between ten and thirty dollars a 750 ml. bottle. Those listed below are from quality producers and most have a bit of a local following, though they may not be the ones you have heard the most about.
Klostor Pinot Grigio is a bit unusual because it comes from the Rheinhessen River region in Germany. We don’t see many German Pinot Grigio wines in Indiana and this inexpensive offering goes down so easily.
Italy is the world’s largest producer of Pinot Grigio and Mezzacorona is one of the larger contributors. Their Pinot Grigio is fresh and fruity revealing hints of effervescence in the mouth. Flavors of soft banana, crisp Granny Smith apple, spice and lime zest fill the palate and leave a finish of tart apple. It is a fine place to start in an exploration of Italian˙ Pinot Grigio.
Bottega Vinaia Pinot Grigio is a more expensive, more highly rated wine. It’s not that the flavors are all that different, just deeper, more complex and more refined.
Quiche with a butter lettuce salad, herb crusted halibut or lobster with a tarragon butter sauce are just a few of the pairing possibilities. Heck, if you’re a fan of The Deadliest Catch, go for some King Crab legs with that tarragon butter instead of the lobster.
There are many fine Pinot Gris or Grigio wines available to area consumers. With food or sipped solo, they are a boon to those who enjoy white wines. Choose one and ENJOY.
