When I was told I was going to be sampling Arabian food this month, I cringed. I usually begin my food reviews with some quirky story of my past, but Arabian food? No quirky little story here… In my pea brain, I equated Arabia with Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves and a bunch of desert sands. Deserts mean hot, so I just figured the food was hot too! Makes perfect sense, eh?! So, I dragged my feet as I entered into the House of Como. My initial thought: “it’s April, why are there Christmas decorations up?”

Photography | Courtney Mertzger

            If you aren’t an Evansville born and bred, such as myself, you have probably never even heard of the House of Como – but I’ll bet you have passed it once or twice. Have you ever been driving down 164, looked over to the railing down to Kentucky Ave. and glanced at a stark white building with black lettering and Santa Claus on top? Does it seem odd and out of place? Do you keep your eyes on the road like a responsible driver?

            I walked into HOC and was instantly greeted by a table full of older gentlemen. We were shown to our table and sat with Martha Hage, the utterly charming owner and operator of HOC. Martha explained to us that Como had originally been the dining area of the Roca Bar and was owned by her late husband, George. In the 1950s, the House of Como moved close to the area where it stands now – the road to Henderson. Almost 35 years ago, House of Como burned down and Martha and George were forced to move to a new location, right down the block. Where HOC stands now, a car-hop drive-up eating establishment stood. (Think original Sonic.) The Hages enclosed the drive-up spots and the new House of Como was born.

            We started our meal with some appetizers that you won’t find anywhere in area. Hummas was something I have tried before but it was a bit more biting than most Hummus I’ve sampled, as it was topped with paprika. It was also served with Arabian flat bread. This bread was as flat as a tortilla, but was flour bread! It was served warm and was compatible with any dish. Then came the Arabian salad. Have you ever tried the dressing at Nagasaki; know how it has that distinct flavor that you could never mimic but is so tasty? HOC’s dressing is all that and more. It is completely addictive with a hint of mint. Some people buy it by the gallon, it is so good. Even Martha’s dentist tries to extract the secret recipe when he has her under the laughing gas…she never budges. Our next appetizer was a bit more exotic, and I must say I was a bit shy at first but being the professional that I am, I mastered the Kibi Nea (raw ground beef and wheat on onion petals). If you enjoy sushi, you will definitely enjoy Kibi. Some people come in and only order this delectable dish.

            I was ready for more Arabian food! Out came our main courses! Djage, Yebra Malfoof and Seneya Betinjin! Ah! This reviewer’s mouth was in pure Heaven. Djage is a baked chicken on a bed of ground beef, rice and pine nut stuffing. The chicken was a little crispy, and baked to a delicious golden brown. Yebra Malfoof is rolled cabbage leaves stuffed with a beef and rice and placed on a bed of rice stuffing. The cabbage is so tender, you can cut it with a fork. The Seneya Betinjin is an eggplant casserole with meat. Eggplant is usually a turnoff to me, but this eggplant was thick and rich. The bed of rice is rice, ground beef, pine nuts and cinnamon. This combination may sound a bit strange, but try it! The flavors harmonize so well with each other; your boring Hacienda days are over!

            We rounded out our meal with some Baklava. This Baklava was different because it was encrusted with pistachio nuts – a very sweet and sticky twist to a more than satisfying meal.

            I must say my meal was not at all what I expected, and HOC even offers an Italian menu, steaks, shrimp and other American fare.

            The House of Como has been a fundamental in the vast world of Evansville restaurants for the past 60 years, but few even know it exists. Those that know it have been frequenting for many many years and have countless fond memories of George, the Syrian chef and the blonde girl from whom he stole the heart of many moons ago.

            Oh, and if you are wondering about the Santa Claus on top of the building… When you walk into HOC, you’ll notice it’s riddled with Christmas tinsel and original decorations. It seems someone decided to put them up 35 years ago, and just never took them down.

            When I left, Martha went back to her special seat at the bar – the one she began occupying when George let her take over the business a few years ago before he passed away – and the same group of gentlemen bid their farewells to us as we stepped out the door.

            Visit the House of Como on 2700 S. Kentucky Ave. on Tuesday through Saturday or call (812) 422-0572 for carry-out.